Dali is Yunnan's lake-and-mountain old town: the Bai people's marble-and-blossom city on Erhai lake beneath the 4,000-metre Cangshan range. It's the relaxed alternative to Lijiang — bike-and-cafe days, three-courses-of-tea ceremonies and the classic Yunnan loop start.
LodgingOld-town courtyards ¥250–500; lake-view inns ¥350–700.
FoodBai dishes ¥30–80: er si rice noodles, raw-meat salad (try cautiously), Xizhou baba ¥5–10, wild mushroom hotpot ¥100–150.
Local transportE-bike rental ¥50–80/day, buses ¥2–5, Dali-Lijiang train ¥34–60.
TicketsThree Pagodas ¥75, Cangshan cableway ¥80–100, Erhai west shore free.
Old town for atmosphere; lakeside villages (Caicun, Shuanglang) for views and quiet.